I’ve been flummoxed, flabbergasted and flustered. But I’ve never been in a flummery — and for good reason. It’s yet another one of those engaging, endearing and slightly silly fruit dessert words.

Note: You can use blackberries, olallieberries, boysenberries or red raspberries. Three pounds of blackberries yields 3 ½ cups seedless puree. 1 1/2 to 3 pounds berries 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice ...